Processing knowledge and cutting process of woven fabrics(2)

Sewing

Sewing is the central process of garment processing. The sewing of garments can be divided into two types: machine sewing and hand sewing according to the style and craft style. In the sewing and processing process to implement flowing operations.

Bonded lining in garment processing is more commonly used, its role is to simplify the sewing process, so that the garment quality uniform, to prevent deformation and wrinkles, and play a role in garment modeling. Its type of non-woven, woven, knitted as the backing fabric, the use of bonded lining to choose according to the fabric and parts of the garment, and to accurately grasp the time, temperature and pressure of gluing, so as to achieve better results.

Woven garment processing, sewing line according to certain rules of mutual series of joint configuration on the piece of clothing to form a solid and beautiful stitch. The stitching can be basically summarized into four types as follows.

Chain stitch

Chain stitch is made of one or two sewing threads in series. A single stitch is called a single chain stitch. The advantage is that it uses less thread per unit length, but the disadvantage is that when the chain stitch is broken, the side lock is disconnected. A double stitch is called a double chain stitch and consists of a needle thread and a hook thread, which is more flexible and stronger than a lock stitch and less likely to come apart. Single chain stitch is often used for hemline of tops, reel stitch of pants and barge head of suits. The double thread chain stitch is often used in the seam allowance and seam allowance, the back and side seams of pants, and the elastic band, etc., which are subject to more stretching and stronger force.

Lock stitch

Also known as shuttle stitch, it consists of two stitches cross-linked in the seam material with the same shape at both ends of the material. The straight lockstitch is the most common stitch and is often used for sewing two pieces of material due to the low amount of thread used and the low stretch. It is often used for sewing two pieces of seams, such as hemming, saving seams, bagging, etc.

Overlock stitch

A stitch consisting of several stitches that are looped around the edge of the sewing material. It is called by its name according to the number of stitches that make up the stitch (single overlock, double overlock ...... six overlock). It is characterized by the ability to wrap the edges of the seam to prevent the edges of the fabric from coming apart. 

When the seam is stretched, there can be a certain degree of mutual transfer between the face and bottom lines, thus the seam is more elastic, so it is widely used in the woven fabric overlock. Three-line overlock and four-line overlock are the most commonly used hemming for woven garments. Five- and six-thread overlock seams, also known as "composite stitching", are made by combining a two-thread overlock seam with a three- or four-thread overlock seam. The most important feature is that it is strong and can be sewn together and overlocked at the same time, thus increasing the density of the seam and the productivity of the sewing.